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You can gauge the age of a Parisian restaurant by its size. The older it is, the smaller and more crowded. Americans have no idea what it’s like to dine in a space that’s 150 years old (the bathroom is across the courtyard).  But if you want to eat with Parisians, then a meal at Au Pied de Fouet is a must

This tiny place on rue Babylone is just a ten minutes west of the luxurious Bon Marche department store.  The concrete walls lining much of the street conceal government buildings, a lovely park and the construction site of a new high-end apartment complex.  Before long this area will blossom with activity.

Au Pied de Fouet’s wooden exterior, painted a bright cabernet red, is a startling contrast from the grey monotony that proceeds it.   In the middle of the 19th century it was a way station where riders could trade in a tired steed for a fresh one and grab a bite to eat.  Today it looks like a converted two car garage filled with flea market treasures. A zinc bar just inside the door operates simultaneously as reception, cashier, dessert and coffee station.  Tables lining the opposite wall are at such a premium that strangers often end up sharing a table. George and I found ourselves seated with a pair of gentlemen from Alsace, almost literally dining cheek to cheek.
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Our table stood alone opposite the door.  Behind me a narrow staircase led to cramped second floor seating. The open kitchen door was just behind George who sat facing me.  On each floor only a single waiter seated guests, took orders and served food.  Both navigated in this tight passageway around us - in and out of the kitchen, up and down stairs - with seemingly choreographed ease.  Food came out, empty plates returned, all without hesitation, a collision or even a grazing.

The menu is traditional bistro fare, servings are generous and prices are inexpensive.  The food was a great value too: fresh, tasty, well-presented. Au Pied de Fouet is a well-oiled machine of hospitable and non-intrusive charm.  We left refreshed, wishing there were a couple of rested horses waiting to take us back to Montmartre
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Last Updated (Monday, 12 September 2011 09:58)

 

5 Comments

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  1. Jim makes this comment

    Tuesday, 13 September 2011

    It sounds so WONDERFUL!!! wish I was there.. Thinking of you.. Jim

  2. kay mccarthy makes this comment

    Thursday, 15 September 2011

    we have eaten there twice and loved it, stayed in hotel nearby. did you notice the cubby holed box that holds napkins of regulars? KAY

  3. Madelaine makes this comment

    Tuesday, 20 September 2011

    We sat at a table just under the rack of cubby holes. The regulars reached over us to return their checkered napkins on their way out. Too cool.

  4. jane gralen makes this comment

    Thursday, 22 September 2011

    Madelaine - This was such a charming write-up, I almost felt like I was there. There really is nothing like bistro dining in Paris. But you didn't tell us what you ordered! Thanks for your great accounts of enjoyable dining and food tips! Jane Gralen

  5. Laura S makes this comment

    Sunday, 27 November 2011

    When my grandmother, Jane, sent me this article, this little restaurant my boyfriend and I visited last year in Paris came to mind... and when I clicked on the link it turns out that it was the same place! I had the duck confit and it was delicious!! But definitely the smallest restaurant I've ever eaten in. I felt like a giant in there - we had to duck under some sort of overhang to be seated at our table. Certainly a memorable Paris dining experience. Great blog!

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