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We’re on the road to St Remy on a bright October morning.  Towering plane trees shelter us from brilliant ’van Gogh’-blue skies while cool breezes ease the effects of a hot sun.   This is Indian summer in Provence.  We can’t believe our good fortune.

George is at the wheel of the largest rental car we could find.  This impeccable white van comfortably seats nine and will be easy to spot in a parking lot.   It will carry eight of us on a 'Provence Odyssey' to ancient Roman sites, colorful market towns and back to dinner al fresco in St Remy.

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Our bed and breakfast arrangement surpasses everyones' expectations.  La Tuilerie is a luxurious four bedroom farmhouse, the largest of several renovated residences.  Owner William Moore has created what he aptly calls Provence Paradise http:// www.provenceparadise.com. Is there another hands-on host who brings croissants in the morning and hors d’oeuvres at sunset?  William even monitors the water temperature in the pool and the number of rose bottles in the frig.  His excellent French masks the truth: William is an American who grew up in Downers Grove, IL and attended elementary school with one of my students.  I'll let you work out the degrees of separation involved.
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The golden glow from the sunset behind the Arles arena captures the spirit of Roman life still evident in Provence.   Excellent documentation at the sites we visit connect visitors with daily life in ancient Gaul.  A gem of a museum at the Pont du Gard describes how this amazing aquaduct was constructed.  And the audioguide at the arena in Nimes examines its evolution from a cruel circus of combat and martyrdom to an unassuming army barracks.  

These monuments made me wonder - How does modern France really feel about this ancient occupation?  Look no further than an cartoon icon, Asterix.  He's not just a squeaky-voiced animated character, Asterix is a symbol of French exceptionalism.   With the help of  his tubby buddy Obelisk and dog Idefix, diminuative Asterix always outsmarts Julius Caesar’s troups and manages to save the last bit of of Gaul from Roman rule.

jbhuguesOur white van then takes us south to Les Baux where we purchase  CastelaS olive oil and visit with owner Jean-Benoit Hugues.  He is quite passionate about this family’s ten-year-old business and proud of the facility he's designed whose product wins competative tastings every year.

Jean-Benoit was raised near Les Baux but its the experience he gained in the States as an electronics engineer that honed his entrepreneurial nature.   When we ask him if he misses the high-tech world, he reflects on its current financial instability.   Developing an olive oil business that will survive him is, he says,  just as dynamic and demanding a business as making semi-conductors for Motorola was two decades ago.  We believe him.
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Shopping in the St. Remy market is harder than it looks. There are so many olives that would make a tasty stuffing for  roast leg of lamb once you decided on a vendor,. There are several and each has a mouthwatering display. My deep panier basket will be filled with vegetables for ratatouille and plums for clafouti (pictured below) before I’m finished

Finally, seven of us gather around the island in Le Tuilerie kitchen for cooking class later in the day. (The chauffeur takes a break.)  Each couple prepares a recipe as the rest of us look on and assist as needed.  Our seasonal menus consist of uncomplicated  recipes made with a few great ingredients and a moderate amount of preparation.   We always make time for a glass of wine at the end of class while George lights the candles for the table outdoors.
plum clafouti

mirande1Our last morning in Provence is spent in a kitchen.  But it’s the enchanting restored 18th century kitchen in the five star La Mirande Hotel in Avignon.  We’ve accompanied Chef Francois to the market where we purchased baby monk fish, pintade (domestic guinea fowl) and pears for our meal.

The next hour and a half is spent working at stations around a large communal table in front of the wood-burning fireplace.  There’s a lot of peeling, cleaning, chopping and sauteeing under the Chef's watchful eye.  He then takes over at the range, and we retire to the cellar with school director Severine for a glass of wine.

Chef Francois and Severine will soon join us for a delicious lunch at the kitchen table which has been cleared in our absence and set with attractive modern tableware.   After coffee in the hotel’s lobby we’re off with a private guide to tour the Palais des Papes.
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We hope you will join us on next year's Provence Odyssey!  More information soon.

madsig

Last Updated (Sunday, 15 January 2012 14:38)

 

4 Comments

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  1. Suzanne makes this comment

    Wednesday, 12 October 2011

    Wow, What a fantastic trip! I wish I was there with you. One of these days! The olives and monkfish. You are an amazing tour guide.

  2. Bill Flodin makes this comment

    Wednesday, 12 October 2011

    Are "Provence Odyssey" and La Belle vie Provence" the same tour; or, are they separate tours? I very much enjoyed your blog posted earlier today, ""Postcards from Provence."" In it you picture a plum clafouti. Where can I find your recipe for the plum clafouti?

  3. Madelaine makes this comment

    Wednesday, 12 October 2011

    They are different tours. 'Provence Odyssey' is a new venture based in St.Remy de Provence. We spend the week in a luxurious bed and breakfast. Our itinerary mixes cooking classes with visits to market towns and Roman sites. 'La Belle Vie' focuses on art collections in St. Paul de Vence, Nice, Antibes and Aix en Provence. We stay in luxury hotels and dine in interesting local restaurants. You will find the Plum Clafouti recipe in the Chez Madelaine Recipe Archive.

  4. jane gralen makes this comment

    Friday, 14 October 2011

    Madelaine! You did it again! What a dreamy write-up of such a heavenly place. Brings back lots of memories and all your descriptions are so mouth watering. Keep up the great work. Your entries are a delight to read! Jane G.

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